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Sara Ziff was 14 when she first began modelling. Her third casting was in the East Village in New York. “We had to go in one by one. The photographer said he wanted to see me without my shirt on. Then he told me that it was still hard to imagine me for the story so could I take my trousers off. I was standing there in a pair of Mickey Mouse knickers and a sports bra. I didn’t even have breasts yet. ‘We might need to see you without your bra,’ he told me. It was like he was a shark circling me, walking around and around, looking me up and down without saying anything. I did what he told me to. I was just eager to be liked and get the job. I didn’t know any better.”

Teenage girls, she says, are being persuaded to pose in a sexual way when they don’t even know what it means yet. She recalls being a “virginal teenager” and posing innocently when she didn’t feel remotely sexy. “The images came out and they were practically pornographic. What the photographer saw was not what I felt. It had nothing to do with that 14-year-old and what she was feeling and everything to do with what the person behind the camera projected onto her.”

Sara Ziff talks to Louise France about the world of teen modelling | Life and style | The Observer